“Tom! Come here - and bring your camera!” bellowed Chef Bedford from inside the walk-in cooler. Quickly grabbing the equipment, I rush to the prep kitchen just in time to see our first halibut of the season (looking rather sizable up against our giant chef) being carried towards its last destination as a whole fish - the chopping board! All of the chefs in the kitchen come to see the commotion, trying to take a peak at the new product as Colin works on it, smoothly and quickly filleting the fish, then removing the skin and expertly portioning the meat into equal sizes, ready for a much anticipated menu change.
Fish is one of our favorite proteins to cook with; they achieve that golden brown sear that flavors the fish so well, and it is satisfying finishing it with a hint of lemon juice and sprig of thyme. They’re incredibly healthy to eat. Their meat produces delicate and rich flavors. And it’s a product we work with from scratch, preparing it from whole, investing time into making it perfect, as if developing a relationship with it, and trying to improve upon the previous one.
Pacific halibut, which we use, is found primarily in the coastal North Pacific Ocean and Bering Sea. It migrates hundreds of miles from shallow coastal waters to the deep, open ocean to spawn in winter. Most return, year after year, to the same coastal feeding grounds. And they are huge – some of the largest fish we eat. The largest halibut to have been caught weighed in at an astounding 700 pounds and at a length of 8 feet.
The halibut you eat in restaurants are at least around 8-12 years old when caught - older then one would think! This is the age in which they have fully matured, are ready to breed and are legal to catch. Anything below is a breach of U.S. and Canadian regulations.
Fearrington House, like all Relais & Châteaux members, cooperates with the Seafood Choices Alliance, an international non-governmental organization that seeks to secure sustainable seafood supplies. Further, we also adhere to Monterey Bay Aquarium’s guidelines to purchase only ocean friendly seafood. So in accordance with their guidelines, we buy the Pacific halibut which has a healthy population, but not the Atlantic halibut, which has been overfished.On our menu you’ll see this fish as the main course as follows: Seared Halibut with Brandade of Salt Cod and Elderflower Cream, Carrot, Savoy Cabbage, Caper, Watercress. It’s a winner!
Finally, I have a few useful tips for all home cooks wanting to improve their fish cooking skills:
1. Allow the fish to temper when you pull it from the fridge (come to room temp).
2. Pat the fish dry with paper towel to help prevent the fish from sticking to the pan.
3. Heat the pan until smoking, then add olive or vegetable oil and then the seasoned fish, skin side down away from the stove to prevent flames from catching on the pan.
4. Cook the fish on high until it develops a beautiful golden crust then turn the heat down and continue to cook the fish for 3/4 of the way on a low heat.
5. Flip the fish and take off from the heat and add a teaspoon of butter, a squeeze of lemon and a sprig of thyme; baste the fish with the butter and allow the residual heat of the pan to finish the cooking.
6. Enjoy!