What do soft shell crabs mean to me? Summer is just around the corner and our wedding season is upon us! Before moving to North America I had never seen, prepped or eaten one and they are “still not my cup of tea” but as a chef I would be a fool if I did not put them on the menu, as they are an iconic seafood choice.
Soft shell crabs must be harvested precisely, usually starting at the first full moon in May. This is when the native blue crab of the US is typically starts to molt. Its hard shell prevents young crabs from growing, so they molt their exteriors and have a soft covering which only last for a matter of days. It is during this time, when they are vulnerable to predators, that they are most prized. There is a small window of opportunity – about 4 to 5 days – to eat the crabs at their best. After that, they begin to rebuild their shells and when eaten, have a thin shell called “papershells” or “thinbacks” which are less desirable to customers as they begin to become crunchy.
This molting usually lasts from early May to June on the Eastern Seaboard. As the waters get warmer the harvesting moves up the east coast. It begins in South Carolina moving to North Carolina, Virginia and ending in Maryland, so this schedule can be your gage to determining how long is left in the season. In other words, the further up the east coast the harvesting is, the less time we have left. Just as this year’s weather has affected our growing patterns on land, it has also messed up the crabs, resulting in a slow start this year. We just added this dish to the menu at The Fearrington House.
I like to change up the soft shell crab dish as the window is short. In the past, I have always pan seared them so now I want to fry them either tempura or in good old English Beer Batter. Right now on The Fearrington House menu we’re serving Soft Shell Crab with Potato Gnocchi, Pickled Apple and Rock Shrimp Dressing, White Asparagus, Fava Beans, Parsley, and Cornichons. Either way, nothing captures the romance of the season quite like soft shell crabs.