In many ways Champagne is the best wine in the world. It is can be refreshing, lively, celebratory, serious, complex, in your face, or subtle all in a few sniffs and a few sips. It can pair with more foods than almost any other wine. It is extremely difficult to make, that is in comparison to a large section of other wines.
However, it seems that so many forget about Champagne, and all sparkling wine for that matter. Some only drink it to celebrate, and some just think it is not “serious” enough to be considered in the same breath as the Burgundies or Bordeaux of the world. They're missing a whole lot of enjoyment, and missing one of the most exciting regions in France at the moment. Champagne is no longer just about the image or the brand, it is about the family, the grower, and the terroir. This is not to say that the larger Champagne houses make inferior wine; they in fact make great bubbly, it is just that they represent a different idea, a different perspective. What everyone loves about Burgundy or the Rhône valley, is that the wines show a sense of place, they are where they are from, and that is why wine lovers go crazy about them.
With the plethera of grower-producers coming into the American market we are able to experience the same from Champagne. What these producers do is make “localized” Champagne, using grapes from their village, and more often these days even single vineyard sites. Though we love all great Champagne, we suggest that if you have not tried a grower-producer Champagne that you ask about our selection of these amazing wines.
Here’s some recently added grower-producers to our list at The Fearrington House:
• Aubry, Ivoire et Ebéne, 1er Cru, Brut, Jouy-les-Reims, Montagne de Reims, 2004
• Pehu-Simonet, Cuvée Transparence, Extra Brut, Grand Cru, Verzenay, Montagne de Reims M.V.
• H. Billiot, Cuvée Latitia, Brut, Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims, M.V.
• Jose Michel, Brut Tradition, Moussy, Côtes des Blancs, M.V.
All of the grower-producer wines have a "RM" mark on them, representing the legal designation of Récoltant-Manipulant, and all of the other producers will have "NM", which stands for Négociant-Manipulant. There are of course other designations for Champagne, and I have yet to touch upon the controversial subject of Dosage, but that can be saved for another post. The NM designation stands for producers who can purchase grapes and vins clairs (wine that has already gone through primary fermentation) from growers, cooperatives and other houses. This does not mean that all NM only use purchased grapes, some grow a large portion of the grapes that they use, some do not use any.
Either way we hope you love these wines as much as we do, and appreciate these wines not just as something for a celebration, but a celebration in their own right, a toast to life and happiness…